New Equipment and Product Highlights

LinksWell Dual-Screen Radio

LinksWell has introduced an innovative dual-screen radio system, featuring two side-by-side 12.3-inch panels. This setup allows users to display independent apps and sources simultaneously, enhancing multitasking capabilities within the vehicle. Designed primarily for RVs, it also suits custom installations.

Stinger HORIZON 12.8-Inch Radio

Stinger Electronics unveiled the HORIZON12, a 12.8-inch radio offering wireless Apple CarPlay and Android Auto. This larger screen can be mounted in both landscape and portrait modes, providing flexibility and a modern aesthetic to vehicle dashboards.

Hertz Cento Power Amplifiers

Hertz has expanded its Cento line with new compact and efficient amplifiers. These amplifiers deliver substantial power while maintaining a small footprint, making them ideal for installations where space is limited. Their versatility caters to various setups, from simple upgrades to complex systems.

Key Trends in Car Audio

The Growing Role of DSPs

Digital Signal Processors (DSPs) are increasingly integral to modern car audio systems. They allow precise tuning, enabling systems to achieve optimal sound quality without extensive rewiring. With more affordable and user-friendly models available, DSPs are becoming a valuable addition to any setup.

The Rise of Plug-and-Play Solutions

Plug-and-play kits are gaining popularity, offering pre-wired solutions for amplifiers, speakers, and DSPs. These kits simplify the installation process and reduce the need for custom wiring, making upgrades more accessible. For instance, Audison’s sound pack for the Tesla Model 3 provides a plug-and-play solution that enhances sound quality without major modifications.

Highlights from October Events

IASCA 35th Anniversary World Finals

The International Auto Sound Challenge Association (IASCA) celebrated its 35th anniversary with the World Finals in Birmingham, Alabama. Enthusiasts competed in categories like Sound Pressure Level (SPL) and Sound Quality, showcasing creativity and technical skill. The event also featured demonstrations of new gear, offering attendees a firsthand look at the latest products in action.

SEMA Show 2024 Preview

While the Specialty Equipment Market Association (SEMA) Show officially runs in early November, many brands have already teased their new products. Expect a focus on compact amplifiers, advanced DSPs, and modular systems that allow easy upgrades. SEMA remains a key event for those looking to keep their systems on the cutting edge.

Practical Takeaways and Tips

1. Test New Products for Compatibility
   When adding new components, ensure they’re compatible with your existing setup. This is especially important with advanced features like dual screens or DSP integration.
2. Focus on Efficient Wiring
   Compact amplifiers and plug-and-play solutions can make installations quicker and neater, keeping wiring clean and reducing the chances of interference.
3. Watch for Upcoming Releases
   Several brands hinted at future product launches at this year’s events. Staying updated can help you plan your next system upgrade or installation project.

What’s Ahead?

As the year concludes, anticipate more modular and wireless audio solutions. Simplified installations and advanced control apps are likely to dominate 2025’s offerings, making high-quality systems more achievable than ever before.

Stay tuned for next month’s updates, and in the meantime, explore these latest releases to elevate your car audio system. Whether upgrading a single component or building a full system, these advancements ensure there’s always something new to enhance your audio experience.

If you’re looking to wire car speakers yourself, you’re in the right place. Wiring car speakers may seem intimidating at first, but with the right guidance, it’s a simple and straightforward process. Whether you’re upgrading your factory audio system or installing an entirely new setup, this guide will walk you through the essential steps and provide helpful tips to ensure a clean and effective installation.

Why Understanding Speaker Wiring Matters

Properly wiring your car speakers is crucial for achieving the best sound quality. Speakers operate on alternating current (AC) voltage, which differs from the direct current (DC) voltage that powers your car’s amplifier and head unit. This fundamental difference impacts how speakers produce sound and how they interact with other components in your car’s audio system.

Additionally, understanding the nuances of speaker wiring—like polarity and phasing—can help you fine-tune your audio experience, ensuring your system performs at its best.

Tools and Materials You’ll Need

Before you start wiring your car speakers, gather the necessary tools and materials:

• Speaker wire (16 or 18-gauge is typically sufficient)
• Wire strippers
• Electrical tape or heat shrink tubing, zip ties (optional for a cleaner install)
• Multimeter (just in case you need to test something, but likely not required for a simple speaker install)
• Crimp connectors
• Crimpers
• Screwdrivers
• Panel removal tool (optional, for removing door panels)

Step 1: Understand Speaker Polarity

Every speaker has two terminals: positive (+) and negative (-). Correctly wiring the polarity ensures consistency in your install. That’s basically it. You aren’t going to fry anything if the speakers are wired out of phase. In fact, this can be used as a tuning technique (mainly before DSPs became popular).

If speakers are wired in phase (all positive terminals connected to the amplifier’s positive outputs and all negative terminals connected to negative outputs), the speakers will all be in electrical phase with each other. But acoustically, the sound will be off due to different distances that each speaker is located. This is where DSPs come in – more on that later. Let’s stick to speaker installation here.

What Happens If Speakers Are Wired Out of Phase?

Wiring a speaker out of phase (positive to negative and vice versa) will not damage the speaker in any way. However, it can in some cases cause the audio to sound thin or “off” due to destructive interference between sound waves.

Interestingly, wiring speakers out of phase was a common technique used in the pre-DSP era to fine-tune a system. For example, phasing adjustments were sometimes made to improve imaging or to compensate for less-than-ideal speaker placement.

The exception is subwoofers, which produce low frequencies and are often placed close together. Wiring subwoofers out of phase can result in a significant reduction in bass output, as the opposing sound waves cancel each other out. I’ve also noticed similar when adding new 6.5″ speakers to Jeep rollbars since they are fairly close together and share basically the same airspace.

Step 2: Reuse / Measure and Cut the Speaker Wire

Reusing the factory speaker wiring in your car is more than adequate in 95% of installations. If the wire appears to be in good condition, I’d just use that instead of run new wire to every speaker. Too much work for no reason. The exception is super old cars with questionable wiring. Another exception is super high power systems where you need bigger wire. This is very unlikely in most cases since speakers don’t carry near as much current as DC power systems in a car. Another thing to note is that pretty much all factory wiring is pure copper. A lot of aftermarket wiring is copper clad aluminum (CCA) or a mix of aluminum and copper. You can definitely find aftermarket copper wire pretty easily though.

If you do run new wire, be sure to measure the distance between your amplifier or head unit and each speaker. Add a few extra inches to account for routing and connections. Cut the speaker wire to the appropriate length and strip about 1/2 inch of insulation from both ends using wire strippers to prepare it for the speaker terminals.

Choosing the Right Wire Gauge

For most car speaker installations, 16-gauge or 18-gauge speaker wire is sufficient. However, for higher-powered systems or longer runs (e.g., in SUVs or trucks), 14-gauge wire may be a better choice.

Step 3: Route the Speaker Wire

Carefully route the speaker wire through your vehicle, avoiding sharp edges, moving parts, or areas that could cause wear and tear. Use existing factory wire harnesses or channels when possible for a clean installation. Secure the wire with zip ties to prevent it from moving or getting damaged.

Step 4: Connect the Speaker Wire to the Speakers

1. Identify the positive and negative terminals on your speakers. These are usually marked with a + and – or are color-coded (e.g., red for positive and black for negative).
   1. If reusing factory speaker wire, especially when using head unit power, you may need to check wiring manuals to make sure you get positive and negative right.
2. Connect the positive wire to the positive terminal and the negative wire to the negative terminal.
   • If your speaker has spring-loaded terminals, simply insert the stripped wire.
   • If your speaker has tabs, I recommend using crimp on female spade connectors. I do not recommend soldering directly to speakers for various reasons.
3. Ensure the connections are tight and secure to prevent signal loss or distortion.

Step 5: Connect the Speaker Wire to the Amplifier or Head Unit

At the other end of the wire, connect the positive and negative leads to the corresponding terminals on your amplifier or head unit. Most modern car audio systems will have labeled terminals to make this process straightforward. If you have an aftermarket head unit, you’ll want to use a car specific wiring harness which is color coded and makes this process super simple.

Polarity Pro Tips:

If your speaker terminal positive and negative aren’t labeled, and you want to be sure your polarity is correct, here’s a few quick tips:

Battery Method

Use a 9-volt battery (or a speaker polarity tester – basically a 9V battery in a box with LEDs) (or a drill battery if you’re brave – I used to do this when I had a 12V drill) to verify the polarity of your connections. For the 9-volt battery method:

• Cut a little speaker wire pigtail. Connect to the speaker on one end. Briefly touch the positive and negative speaker wires to the corresponding terminals on the battery.
• Observe the movement of the speaker cone:
  • If the cone moves outward, the polarity is correct.
  • If the cone moves inward, the polarity is reversed.

Visual Methods

1. The larger of the 2 terminals is almost always (maybe even 100% always) positive. And the smaller is negative.
2. If they are the same size, try this: When looking at the back of the speaker, the terminal on the right side is usually positive. This isn’t always the case. But if you are replacing all speakers and use this reference, everything will still be in phase. Which is the goal – for all speakers to be in phase with each other. Doesn’t matter if you swap wires if you do it the same way on all speakers.

Step 6: Fine-Tune Your System

Once all the speakers are wired and installed, play some music to test the sound quality. Walk around the vehicle and listen for any inconsistencies. If you notice any strange audio effects, double-check your connections and polarity.

Tips for a Successful Installation

• Label Your Wires: Use small pieces of tape to label each wire during the installation process to avoid confusion. If you’re running your own wire, almost all aftermarket speaker wire is easily identifiable.
• MYTH: “Avoid Running Wires Near Power Cables: This prevents electrical interference, which can cause noise in your audio system.” Bogus in the case of speaker wires. Sometimes you can see some interference with running RCAs next to power cables. But it’s usually due to using the wrong type of RCAs (yes there’s different types – more on this later, though).
• Double-Check Polarity: Mainly if you plan on doing any tuning down the line. If you go to set time alignment (using the distance method – not audibly) and one speaker is out of phase, your time alignment will be off by 180° and you may not even really notice. But you may wonder why it doesn’t sound as good as you think it should.
• Bundle Excess Wire: If you have extra wire, coil it neatly and secure it with zip ties to avoid a messy installation. I like to secure with factory wiring looms whenever possible. Not only does it look nicer, it makes sure you won’t have any interferences – ya know like windows chopping a wire in half… ask me how I know.

Common Mistakes to Avoid

• Using the Wrong Wire Gauge: Too thin a wire can cause too much resistance, reducing the quality of your audio signal. Again, pretty unlikely in the case of most speaker installations.
• Ignoring Polarity: While wiring out of phase won’t damage the speakers, it can cause some issues later on. Especially if you plan on tuning.
• Failing to Secure Wires or Improper Routing: Loose or exposed wires can lead to shorts or damage over time. See above lol.
• Skipping Testing: Always test your connections before reassembling panels or securing wires permanently.

Understanding AC Voltage in Speakers

It’s essential to remember that car speakers operate on AC voltage, which allows them to vibrate back and forth to produce sound. This is different from the DC voltage used to power your car’s amplifier and head unit. AC voltage ensures that the speaker diaphragm moves in both directions, creating sound waves. This is why wiring speakers backwards won’t cause any damage.

Conclusion

Wiring car speakers doesn’t have to be complicated. By understanding the basics of speaker polarity, AC voltage, and the tools needed, you can confidently tackle your next car audio project. Remember, attention to detail and proper testing are the keys to a clean and effective installation. Whether you’re upgrading your sound system or building a custom setup, this guide has you covered for a successful and satisfying experience.

Ready to take your car audio to the next level? Share your thoughts or questions below—we’re here to help you wire with confidence!

Check out this post on proper speaker mounting principles.

Are you ready to transform your car’s audio experience? Whether you’re a casual listener or a dedicated audiophile, the right head unit can make all the difference. In our comprehensive guide, we explore the best head units for sound quality in 2024, helping you find the perfect match to elevate your car’s audio performance. Let’s dive in!

Why Sound Quality Matters in a Head Unit

Imagine cruising down the highway with your favorite tunes playing perfectly clear and rich. The head unit is the heart of your car’s audio system, responsible for processing and delivering sound to your speakers. Here’s why sound quality is essential:

• Enhanced Listening Experience: Crisp highs, deep lows, and balanced mids make music more enjoyable.
• Better Connectivity: High-quality head units often come with advanced connectivity options like Bluetooth, Apple CarPlay, and Android Auto.
• Increased Vehicle Value: A top-notch audio system can boost your car’s resale value.
• Personal Enjoyment: Tailor your sound settings to suit your preferences, making every drive enjoyable.

Top Head Units for Sound Quality in 2024

We’ve curated a list of the top head units that excel in sound quality, combining cutting-edge technology with user-friendly features.

Sony XAV-9000ES / XAV-9500ES

The Sony ES series is a premium Mobile ES™ 2-DIN media receiver featuring a 6.75-inch capacitive HD touchscreen (XAV-9000ES) or a 10.1-inch capacitive HD touchscreen (XAV-9500ES). They support High-Resolution Audio playback and LDAC™ for wireless streaming, ESS digital-to-analog converter, and built-in high-grade 192-kHz / 24-bit digital signal processor. The unit includes a 14-band graphic equalizer with independent 8-band parametric EQ per channel. Time alignment for sound customization, along with a USB-C port for connectivity. Plays MP3, WMA, WAV, AAC, FLAC, ALAC, DSF, and DSDIFF music files. Also plays ASF, WMV, AVI, MKV, MPEG-4 video files via USB. 3 zone crossover. 6-channel preamp outputs (5-volt front, rear, sub).

These new ES units are killer. And my personal favorite double din on this list.

Check the details and purchase on Crutchfield:

• click here for the 9500ES (10.1″ mega monster screen)
• click here for the 9000ES (6.75″ normal screen)

Alpine HDS-990

The Alpine HDS-990 is a high-resolution digital audio processor and media player designed for audiophiles seeking pristine sound quality. It supports formats like FLAC, WAV, and DSD with 192 kHz/24-bit resolution, delivering a studio-quality listening experience. Equipped with a 14-channel DSP, it offers precise tuning with a 10-band parametric equalizer per channel, advanced time alignment, and flexible crossover settings. Its optical digital input and output ensure interference-free audio transmission, making it ideal for high-end audio systems. Built with premium components and noise-isolating design, the HDS-990 integrates seamlessly with external amplifiers for pure, dynamic sound performance.

Check the details and purchase on Crutchfield: click here

Kenwood Excelon Reference DNX997XR

The Kenwood Excelon Reference DNX997XR is a premium car stereo receiver engineered for superior sound quality. It features a 6.8-inch high-definition capacitive touchscreen and supports high-resolution audio formats, including FLAC and WAV, ensuring detailed and dynamic playback. The built-in 13-band graphic equalizer and digital time alignment allow for precise audio tuning, while the 24-bit/192kHz digital-to-analog converter delivers clear and accurate sound reproduction. Additionally, the DNX997XR offers wireless Apple CarPlay and Android Auto compatibility, providing seamless integration with modern smartphones.

DID I MENTION THE GOLD-PLATED PREOUTS?!?!

Check the details and purchase on Crutchfield: click here

Stinger HEIGH10 UN1810

The Stinger HEIGH10 UN1810 is a digital multimedia receiver designed to enhance in-car audio and visual experiences. It features a 10.1-inch capacitive touchscreen with a 1024 x 600 resolution, providing a clear and responsive interface. The unit supports Apple CarPlay and Android Auto, allowing seamless integration with smartphones for navigation, calls, and music streaming. For audio customization, it offers a 15-band graphic equalizer, time correction, and high- and low-pass crossovers, enabling precise sound tuning. Additionally, the HEIGH10 includes multiple inputs and outputs, such as optical digital output, 4V preouts (front/rear/sub), HDMI, USB, and four camera inputs, catering to various connectivity needs.

Discontinued But Still Excellent If You Can Find Them:

Sony RSX-GS9

The Sony RSX-GS9 is renowned for its high-resolution audio capabilities, including native DSD playback and an ESS digital-to-analog converter. It supports various high-resolution audio formats and features a rigid dual-layer chassis to minimize vibrations and distortion. Note that it lacks a built-in amplifier, so an external amp is required.

Check the details on Crutchfield: click here

Pioneer DEX-P99RS

The Pioneer DEX-P99RS is a reference-quality head unit featuring a 32-bit binary floating-point DSP for precise sound processing. It offers a 31-band equalizer and supports a 4-way active crossover network, providing extensive tuning options for audiophiles

Three words: COPPER PLATED CHASSIS. Look at this thing:

Check the details on Crutchfield: click here

Pioneer DEH-80PRS

The Pioneer DEH-80PRS is basically the little brother of the P99RS above. Designed for audiophiles, featuring a 16-band equalizer, auto EQ, and auto time alignment. It supports a 3-way active crossover network and includes high-quality components like a Burr-Brown 24-bit DAC.

Check the details on Crutchfield: click here

Alpine CDE-178BT (Euro Model)/ iDE-178BT (Euro Model) / CDE-HD149BT (US Model)

The Alpine CDE-178BT offers high-quality audio performance with a 24-bit DAC and a 9-band parametric equalizer. It supports FLAC playback via USB and includes Bluetooth connectivity for hands-free calling and audio streaming.

Check the CDE-HD149BT details on Crutchfield: click here

Check the iDE-178BT details at Alpine UK: click here

Check the CDE-178BT details at Alpine UK: click here

Honorable Mention: Kenwood Excelon KDC-X998

I don’t have much experience with this one, but from the looks of it, it probably shouldn’t be considered a “sound quality” head unit. But someone mentioned it online, and it seems to be pretty good for the money – so here it is… The Kenwood Excelon KDC-X998 features a 13-band equalizer, “Sound Excellence DSP,” time alignment, and supports high-resolution audio playback. It includes Bluetooth connectivity and dual USB ports for versatile media options.

Check the details on Crutchfield: click here

Features to Consider When Choosing a Head Unit for Sound Quality

Selecting the right head unit involves more than just picking a model from a list. Here are key features to consider:

Audio Quality

• Preout Voltage: Higher voltage ensures less noise.
• Digital Output Capabilities: Offers a noise free alternative to RCAs.
• Signal-to-Noise Ratio: A higher ratio means less background noise and better clarity.
• Audio Processing Capabilities: Features like digital signal processing (DSP) enhance sound customization.

Connectivity Options

• Bluetooth: Essential for wireless streaming and hands-free calls.
• USB Ports: For charging devices and playing music from USB drives.
• Apple CarPlay and Android Auto: Provides seamless smartphone integration.

User Interface

• Touchscreen vs. Physical Buttons: Choose what’s more intuitive for you.
• Customization: Ability to adjust settings and layouts to your preference.
• Ease of Use: Simple navigation for a hassle-free experience.

Compatibility and Installation

• Fit for Your Vehicle: Ensure the head unit fits your car’s dashboard.
• Expandability: Compatibility with additional components like amplifiers and subwoofers.
• Installation Services: Professional installation can save you time and ensure optimal performance.

Additional Features

• Navigation: Integrated GPS for easy directions.
• Camera Inputs: Support for rearview or backup cameras.
• Smart Features: Voice control, customizable presets, and more.

Installation Tips for Your New Head Unit

Installing a new head unit can seem daunting, but with the right approach, it’s manageable. Here are some tips to ensure a smooth installation:

1. Gather Necessary Tools: Screwdrivers, wiring harnesses, and mounting kits tailored to your vehicle.
2. Remove the Old Unit Carefully: Follow your car’s manual to avoid damaging the dashboard.
3. Connect the Wiring Correctly: Use a wiring diagram specific to your head unit and vehicle.
4. Secure the Head Unit Properly: Ensure it’s firmly mounted to prevent vibrations and movement.
5. Test Before Finalizing: Check all functions like audio, Bluetooth, and navigation before securing everything in place.

Frequently Asked Questions (FAQs)

What is a head unit?

A head unit is the central component of your car’s audio system, responsible for controlling music playback, connecting to other devices, and sometimes providing navigation and other smart features.

Learn more about the basics of car audio here.

Can I install a head unit myself?

Yes, if you have some technical knowledge and the right tools. However, professional installation is recommended to ensure everything works correctly and safely.

What should I look for in terms of compatibility?

Ensure the head unit is compatible with your vehicle’s make and model. Check for available connections, such as Bluetooth, USB, and integration with existing systems like backup cameras.

How does a head unit affect overall sound quality?

A high-quality head unit processes audio signals more efficiently, providing clearer sound, better volume control, and enhanced features like equalization and sound customization.

Are there wireless options available?

Absolutely! Many modern head units offer wireless connectivity options like Bluetooth and support for wireless Apple CarPlay and Android Auto, reducing cable clutter and enhancing convenience.

Conclusion: Elevate Your Car’s Audio Performance Today

Choosing the best head unit for sound quality can dramatically enhance your driving experience. From seamless connectivity and impressive audio processing to user-friendly interfaces and sleek designs, the options in 2024 are better than ever. Ready to upgrade?

In this post we are going to cover the basics of car audio. There are many things that go into a stereo setup, but they can be broken down into their basic components:

Source

The source is where your music comes from. This can be in the form of a CD, mp3 player, cell phone, etc. Basically what the music is stored on.

Signal Processor

For your music to play through the speakers, the signal first has to be processed. For CDs the signal processor is built into the CD player. For phones and mp3 players, the signal processor is usually built in to the phone/player itself.  A signal processor takes the digital signal from your source and transforms it into something the amplifier will understand so it can be turned into sound.

Amplifier

After the signal is processed, it is amplified by either an external amplifier or the radio. Most head units are both a signal processor and an amplifier in one. This makes it easy to install aftermarket radios into otherwise stock cars since most cars have a basic radio with an amplifier built in. So really a head unit does both of these steps.

You can also add an external amplifier for cleaner and/or louder sound. This takes the signal from the radio or other signal processor in more advanced setups and amplifies it before sending it to the speakers to produce sound.

Speakers

Finally, the amplified signal makes its way through the speakers in the form of sign waves which produces the sound you hear that we call music (some better than others).

Car Audio Basics: How Does My Car’s Stereo Work?

Most Factory Car Audio Systems

Most cars come with a basic all in one head unit that acts as the signal processor and amplifier that sends that signal straight to the speakers. Since the signal processor is built into the cheap head unit, you usually can’t get good quality sound out of the factory setup without adding fancy external processors.

Amplified Factory Systems

Amplified systems are meant to sound good from the factory, but most of the time they don’t, and this usually complicates things. The way these systems work is the head unit acts as the signal processor that sends that signal to an external amplifier then to the speakers. Since these are meant to sound better than the all-in-one head unit setups, they usually do once you start adding your own components as well. But in some cases they end up sounding worse and expensive signal processors come into play.

Car Audio Basics: Upgrading and Optimizing Your Car Audio System

First Steps

Start at the Source

When you are trying to get the best sound out of your system, you want to start at the source and work your way from there. The best speakers in the world will sound terrible if you are trying to

stream Pandora through them.

CDs or lossless music files are the way to go these days, although most head units still don’t support lossless files. I would say the lowest bit rate you should go on mp3s is 320kbps AAC. Most head units will support this format, and iPods support this format. Most head units have great iPod support. Win-win.

Also, it will be very hard if not impossible for most normal people to distinguish between this format and lossless. Especially in a car environment (terrible acoustics, road noise, etc).

Head Units

The most popular first upgrade is the radio itself, or head unit. This is for many different reasons: features, looks, customization, better processing, etc. Car companies use cheap parts to keep the cost of their cars down. It’s amazing how much difference a good head unit can make, especially when you can add features your car might not have come with in the process.

Features

Units like this new Pioneer AVIC-8000NEX (discontinued) fit most vehicles with the right parts and greatly improves the looks and functionality of your dash. DVD playback, smartphone compatibility, navigation, are all features you can have when adding an aftermarket head unit.

You can see how this is a popular first upgrade for your sound system. You can even add external monitors and sources such as headrest TVs or a backup camera. Adding an aftermarket radio also makes it easier to add external amplifiers.

Sound Quality

Not only do aftermarket radios offer better features, they usually offer better sound quality, too. Most stock head units have cheap DACs (digital to analog converters). When you upgrade your head unit, most of the time you are upgrading the DAC as well. Units like the Pioneer DEH-80PRS ($324 on Amazon with Prime shipping) offer three separate Burr-Brown DACS and 3 volt RCA outputs for the ultimate in sound quality.

Louder Sound

Aftermarket units also offer more power than stock head units (not stock amplified systems, though). Most factory radios have around 5-10 watts RMS per channel on their built in amplifiers. Most aftermarket radios offer around 15-18 watts RMS per channel (although they advertise 50W; this is a max power rating, though).

Subwoofers/Amplifiers

Subs are probably the next most popular upgrade whether it be for sound quality or SPL (sound pressure level, aka loud).

Sound Quality (SQ)

Subwoofers are not just to make loud boomy noises. They also greatly increase the sound quality in a few different ways.

One way they help with sound quality is they introduce low frequency sounds that most factory speakers or even aftermarket mid range drivers can’t reproduce clearly. This lets you hear low sounds that you couldn’t hear before that add depth and richness to your music.

Another way they help with SQ is take bass out of your mid range speakers. Most factory systems have full range speakers. This means the signal going to them consists of the very low frequencies and the very high frequencies that these speakers can’t produce. This makes them sound distorted when you try to play bass through them.

When you add a sub, you can set it to play the low frequencies only and set your other speakers to play only the frequencies higher than that. This allows each speaker to be within its sound reproduction range and makes everything much less distorted.

Sound Pressure Level (SPL)

Another popular use of subwoofers is to be loud. This is usually for people trying to show off or compete in SPL competitions. In these setups you usually have the biggest or most subs you can fit/afford with a lot of power going to them. These are the systems that go bump and wake your neighbors late at night.

Amplifiers

In order to add a sub, you have to have an amp to power it. Since head units usually only put out 50W max, you need to add a more powerful external amp to put out the higher power levels subs need since they are a much bigger driver than your typical 6.5″ speaker. Subs usually require at least 150W RMS to perform (depending on the driver).

Some people want to add a little bit of bass in a small package. Sub and amp combos like this Infinity Basslink ($230 on Amazon with Prime shipping) powered subwoofer have the amp built in and take up less room without sacrificing too much bass performance

Speakers/Amplifiers

The next upgrade step is usually the speakers, specifically the front. This can be done with or without adding another amp, but you will get much better performance in terms of quality and loudness with one. The front speakers come first because that is where the sound is being projected towards you, and setting up a good front stage can make it sound like a concert in your car. Rear speakers are usually just used for fill or not used at all when quality is your concern. For loudness, you’ll add all the speakers you can.

Coaxial Speakers

Coax speakers are the ones with the tweeter built into the center of the speaker like these Polk Audio db652‘s. This design allows for more simple installation than component speakers but still adds much better quality than factory speakers. These are a very popular choice due to being more inexpensive and easier/cheaper to install than component setups.

The tweeters are usually crossed over with the use of a capacitor which gives it a -6dB/octave slope at a fixed crossover point to block low frequencies from playing through, and damaging, the tweeter.

Component Speakers

Component speakers, or separates, are speaker setups that separate the tweeter from the mid range driver so the tweeter can be located to better improve sound quality. Since higher frequency sounds are easier to localize than low frequency sounds (hence why the sub is all the way in the trunk usually, the speakers are way down in the door panels, and the tweeters are up high), placing the tweeters closer to ear level and facing them at the driver raises the sound stage and greatly improves the sound quality.

Components usually come with an external crossover with a more advanced network than a single capacitor. These usually have a second or third order crossover set at a certain frequency offering steeper crossover slopes and usually consist of an L pad to dim the tweeters down a few dB to make them not as harsh.

Amplification

Speakers can be amplified with the head unit, but adding an external amp greatly increases output and sound quality. This is especially true when running components since the passive crossovers aren’t too  efficient and require the recommended RMS power to sound best.

Basically, if you can afford it, do it.

These are the basics of sound system upgrades. Depending on your budget you can do one or all of them to improve your sound.

Conclusion

Now that you know the car audio basics, hopefully you have a better idea how everything works together as a system. This should give you some ideas on what route to take when upgrading your car audio system.

Check out my previous blog posts here to get an idea of next steps such as proper speaker installation, what NOT to do, and recommended tools for DIY car audio.

Enjoy free access to the best retro car audio magazines. Discover the latest automotive trends and more.

I use the word “retro” lightly though. Some of these go back a good bit, and I’m getting old – so maybe “retro” works haha.

I used to get Super Street, Import Tuner, and DSport mags all the time. Car magazines these days aren’t as easy to find. Especially car audio magazines. But I found some free car magazines you might be interested in, including some “retro” and current car audio mags.

PASMAG Car Audio Magazine

The first isn’t strictly car audio related, but it’s a free car magazine. I think it used to be more of a car audio magazine, but seems to kinda just cover everything now.

Click here for free digital archives of PASMAG (yup they’re still a thing apparently)

This edition must be retro since these were the better days when it was still ok to put hot girls on the cover…

PASMAG just has a lot of cool car magazines in general.

Mobile Electronics Car Audio Magazine

That issuu website also has Mobile Electronics digital copies. Mobile Electronics Mag is mainly geared towards people that work in the car audio industry. But it’s a true car audio magazine. And probably helpful for anyone interested in car audio.

>> Click here for free Mobile Electronics magazine issues

Retro Car Magazines

You can also just search the issuu website for any of your favorite magazines. They seem to have a good bit on there. Click here to search for car audio magazines.

How I can help you:

Free Tuning Kit

Click here to get a free tuning kit including test tones for setting amp gains, an amp gain voltage spreadsheet, pink noise tracks, and a pdf file outlining a super simple way to set up a DSP.

Car Audio Advice Website

– Check out the most popular posts at caraudioadvice.com. Or browse the site to find what you need.

– Check out the store page or the Car Audio Advice Amazon Shop for recommended products like install accessories, tools, swag, and equipment.

Car Audio Advice Email List

– Subscribe here.

Car Audio Advice Facebook Group

– Let’s start the most useful car audio group on Facebook!

– No spam. No promotions. Just car audio talk.

Click here to join

Car Audio Advice Facebook Page

– Like Car Audio Advice on Facebook

Car Audio Advice Instagram

– I’m not very active, but may start posting more in the future. So if IG is your thing, check it out here

Car Audio Advice Twitter

– I’m not very active, but may start posting more in the future. So if Twitter is your thing, check it out here

How I can help you:

Free Tuning Kit

Click here to get a free tuning kit including test tones for setting amp gains, an amp gain voltage spreadsheet, pink noise tracks, and a pdf file outlining a super simple way to set up a DSP.

Car Audio Advice Website

– Check out the most popular posts at caraudioadvice.com. Or browse the site to find what you need.

– Check out the store page or the Car Audio Advice Amazon Shop for recommended products like install accessories, tools, swag, and equipment.

Car Audio Advice Email List

– Subscribe here.

Car Audio Advice Facebook Group

– Let’s start the most useful car audio group on Facebook!

– No spam. No promotions. Just car audio talk.

Click here to join

Car Audio Advice Facebook Page

– Like Car Audio Advice on Facebook

Car Audio Advice Instagram

– I’m not very active, but may start posting more in the future. So if IG is your thing, check it out here

Car Audio Advice Twitter

– I’m not very active, but may start posting more in the future. So if Twitter is your thing, check it out here

The content below is from first ever ‘actual’ Car Audio Advice Newsletter.

If you’re on my email list, you may have seen some emails from me in the past. But I wanted to start more of a newsletter style email with a better structure that’s more consistent.

My plan is to eventually send a weekly newsletter that touches on different car audio tips & tricks, news, and more. If you want more car audio advice straight to your inbox, you can subscribe here.

So here’s volume one:

• What is car audio to you?

• Coming Soon…

• How I can help you

 
Enjoy and let me know your thoughts.

Car audio is…

Loud.

Frustrating.

Misunderstood.

Freeing.

A lot of different things to a lot of different people.

It has been all of these and more to me – starting with freeing.

One of the first things I did to my first car back in high school was an aftermarket radio.

Then a 12″ sub. 

Then those crappy little tweeters everyone used to have.

Then all new speakers.

The radio was installed by Circuit City.

I think I just figured the tweeters out myself.

My friend helped me “install” the sub and amp. I mean it worked, but we ran the power wire through the door jam and grounded it on some random bolt in the trunk. (Actually I don’t think it worked at first due to grounding issues haha. More on that here.)

All of this was freeing to me because it related to the freedom of having my own car. I wasn’t stuck to my house or my parent’s schedule anymore.

I was free to drive. And free to make my car my own (no matter how bad it was thinking back on it).

As a young high schooler, my next goal was to make my car loud.

So I swapped out the single 12 with two 12s. (And put a loud exhaust on the car.)

As you can imagine, doing all of this myself as a teenager was pretty frustrating at times. But it was fun to learn how to do all of this myself.

As I got older and more experienced, I started to learn just how misunderstood car audio is.

There’s a ton of misinformation and myths floating around the internet about car audio. Some even comes from the manufacturers themselves.

My goal with Car Audio Advice and this newsletter is to help you on your car audio journey with each of these topics and more.

So that you can expand your knowledge and love for car audio like I have.

Whether you’re a complete noob, master tech running your own shop, or somewhere inbetween, I’ll have something for you.

What is car audio to you?

Comment below and let me know. I’m curious about your thoughts.

Coming Soon…

I’m working on something pretty exciting that I was planning on selling for $297 (even though I feel it’s worth way more than that).

But I recently decided to just give it away for free.

I don’t have it ready quite yet, but stay tuned because it’s coming very soon.

I’ll leave it at that for this first issue.

Not sure what the format of these newsletters will be quite yet. I’ll just go with the flow and see what happens.

If you want me to cover anything, let me know.

How I can help you:

Free Tuning Kit

Click here to get a free tuning kit including test tones for setting amp gains, an amp gain voltage spreadsheet, pink noise tracks, and a pdf file outlining a super simple way to set up a DSP.

Car Audio Advice Website

– Check out the most popular posts at caraudioadvice.com. Or browse the site to find what you need.

– Check out the store page or the Car Audio Advice Amazon Shop for recommended products like install accessories, tools, swag, and equipment.

Car Audio Advice Email List

– But I’m sure you already know that since you are reading this.

Car Audio Advice Facebook Group

– Let’s start the most useful car audio group on Facebook!

– No spam. No promotions. Just car audio talk.

Click here to join

Car Audio Advice Facebook Page

– Like Car Audio Advice on Facebook

Car Audio Advice Instagram

– I’m not very active, but may start posting more in the future. So if IG is your thing, check it out here

Car Audio Advice Twitter

– I’m not very active, but may start posting more in the future. So if Twitter is your thing, check it out here

I’m sure you’ve heard about how important car speakers installation is but get overwhelmed when you try to do a “proper install”.

They tell you to deaden your whole door twice…

Build intricate door panels or kick panels…

CNC machine your own fancy speaker adapters.

And while all of that is great if you have the time and can afford it, I’m not patient enough for all of that for a simple install.

Especially when it comes to a customer’s car that doesn’t want to pay for all of that.

But I also don’t want to just screw a speaker into their door panel and call it good. Like this install I had to fix recently that was done buy a guy that had “been installing for 25 years”:

So I’ll share with you my simple 3 step method for speaker installs. This is my go-to method for installing speakers 90% of the time.

This is what I would consider the bare minimum. Obviously you can do more as you see fit for your install, but any less is just plain lazy and won’t sound very good.

Simple 3 step car speakers installation

Replacing car speakers comes down to 3 simple steps (the wiring details will be covered in a future post. This will focus on the physical mounting and installation process)

• Step 1 – Sound Deadening

• Step 2 – Speaker Adapter

• Step 3 – Foam Rings

Following these simple steps will give you a great sounding and great looking car speakers installation.

Step 1 – Sound Deadening

You don’t have to go all out with this. Just a simple square of sound deadener behind where the speaker mounts works wonders. Try to cover up any small to medium sized holes that are close to the speaker. But don’t cover up the door clip holes (I learn this the hard way all the time).

I also like to cut out the shape of the speaker hole and stick that deadener to the inside of the outer door skin.

I like to use a 2-in-1 sound deadener like SoundShield or SoundSkins. It’s got the normal type of damping butyl material but also a layer of foam on top. This saves time from doing the foam separately.

If you have any large holes near the speaker, I would recommend sealing them up too for best midbass response.

I like to use something like this foam board cut to size with sound deadener over it. This will be stiff enough to greatly increase the sound over a big hole next to the speaker. You could also be fancy and use some ABS or something.

Here’s a picture of my old STI door after filling in the big holes with foam board and sealing them up with SoundSkins.

Step 2 – Speaker Adapter

Speaker adapters are a must for car speakers installation. You can make them yourself (beware of MDF – it’ll get soggy in a door), or you can just buy premade ones. Again, doesn’t have to be anything fancy.

When replacing car speakers, these universal speaker spacers work great. There are also different thicknesses you can get depending on your application.

But if you don’t have a round cutout in your door (or wherever you are mounting your speaker), you can get a pre-made adapter that’s for your vehicle. Crutchfield is a great resource to find the speaker adapter you will need.

DO NOT USE WOOD OR MDF. I used to do this, but almost every time I did, the MDF swelled up and I had to replace it with a plastic spacer. Even MDF sprayed with bedliner material or sealant.

If you make your own, go with plastic. Whether it’s ABS, HDPE, or PVC. Just not wood. Trust me.

Another tip is to make sure you mount the adapter properly. Nuts and bolts or factory mounting locations if you can. I’ve also used self tapping screws before. Not sexy, but they still work pretty well.

Step 3 – Foam Rings

I like to use Fast Ring type speaker rings for speaker installs. While these aren’t absolutely necessary, they’re still worth it.

Another thing you could do is go to Home Depot and get that foam door insulation stuff.

Put some behind the speaker where it mounts to the adapter.

You can also get some of the thicker stuff to put in front of the speaker to mimic the Fast Rings.

So there you have it. When replacing car speakers, this simple 3 step system is all you really need for a good car speakers installation.

If you don’t believe it works, do one door with this method and one door with whatever you were going to do before. You’ll see.