Building your own shed from scratch is more than just a project—it’s an empowering journey that transforms raw materials into a functional, stylish addition to your property. Whether you’re seeking extra storage, a workspace, or a cozy retreat, having access to free shed plans with a comprehensive materials list can make the process seamless and enjoyable. In this guide, we’ll walk you through everything you need to know to construct a durable and aesthetically pleasing shed, ensuring you have the confidence and knowledge to bring your vision to life.

Why is a Car Audio Blog Talking About Shed Plans?

If you’re a car audio enthusiast, you know that gear can take up a lot of space. From power tools and supplies to extra wiring and even spare subwoofers, having a dedicated space to store and organize your equipment is invaluable. That’s where a shed comes in. Not only does it keep your workspace organized, but it also protects your valuable equipment from dust, weather, and clutter.

I mean just look at this sweet shed ChatGPT drew for me haha:

Why Build Your Own Shed?

Imagine stepping into your backyard and seeing a sturdy shed standing proudly, a testament to your craftsmanship. Building your own shed not only adds value to your property but also offers a personalized space tailored to your specific needs. Here are some compelling reasons to embark on this construction adventure:

• Customization: Design a shed that perfectly fits your requirements, whether it’s a tool storage space, a hobby room, or a serene garden retreat.
• Cost-Effective: DIY shed building can save you significant money compared to purchasing a pre-fabricated one.
• Skill Development: Enhance your construction skills and gain a sense of accomplishment with each step completed.
• Quality Assurance: Ensure that every aspect of your shed meets your standards, from materials used to the final finish.

Benefits of Having a Shed

A well-built shed serves multiple purposes and offers numerous benefits:

1. Enhanced Storage: Keep your tools, gardening equipment, and outdoor gear organized and protected from the elements.
2. Additional Workspace: Create a dedicated area for DIY projects, crafting, or office tasks, free from household distractions.
3. Increased Property Value: A stylish, functional shed can boost the overall value of your home, making it an attractive feature for potential buyers.
4. Personal Sanctuary: Transform the shed into a peaceful escape where you can unwind, read, or pursue hobbies in privacy.

Free Shed Plans With Materials List and the Full Blueprint Collection

Now, to get you started, there’s an incredible resource I want to share. The page linked here offers 5 free shed plans through a quick pop-up, so you can start building with confidence. These are complete plans with materials lists—perfect for organizing your car audio tools and equipment.

But if you’re looking for more options, the same resource offers a $37 package with 12,000 shed plans and some valuable bonuses. It’s a fantastic deal for those who want to explore various designs and storage solutions for any backyard project.

I just downloaded these plans myself and am blown away at how detailed even the free plans are. The dude gives you full PDFs that include materials and cut list, super detailed drawings, and even how many and what kind of nails and screws you need.

Overview of the Shed Building Process

Embarking on shed construction involves several key stages, each crucial to the success of the project. Here’s a high-level overview of what to expect:

1. Planning and Design: Define the purpose, size, and style of your shed, and create detailed plans.
2. Materials Selection: Choose high-quality materials that ensure durability and aesthetic appeal.
3. Foundation Preparation: Lay a solid foundation to support the structure and prevent moisture issues.
4. Framing: Construct the framework that forms the skeleton of the shed.
5. Roofing and Siding: Install the roof and siding to protect the shed from weather conditions.
6. Doors and Windows Installation: Add functionality and light with well-placed doors and windows.
7. Finishing Touches: Paint, seal, and customize the interior to complete your shed.

Let’s delve into each of these stages in detail.

How To Build A Shed From Scratch

1. Planning and Design

Every successful shed project begins with meticulous planning. Start by determining the shed’s purpose—whether it’s for storage, a workshop, or a relaxation space. This decision will influence the size, layout, and features of your shed.

• Choosing the Location: Select a well-drained area with enough space and access to utilities if needed.
• Sizing Up: Standard shed sizes range from 6×8 feet for small storage to 12×20 feet for larger workshops. Ensure the size complies with local zoning regulations.
• Designing the Layout: Sketch a floor plan that includes doors, windows, shelving, and any other features you desire. Utilize free shed plans available online to inspire your design.

2. Selecting Materials

Choosing the right materials is paramount to building a shed that stands the test of time. Here’s a comprehensive materials list to get you started:

• Foundation: Concrete blocks or a poured concrete slab.
• Framing Lumber: 2x4s for walls and roof trusses.
• Plywood or OSB: For wall sheathing and roof decking.
• Roofing Materials: Asphalt shingles, metal roofing, or another preferred type.
• Siding: Vinyl, wood, metal, or composite siding options.
• Doors and Windows: Pre-hung doors and energy-efficient windows.
• Fasteners: Nails, screws, and other hardware.
• Paint or Stain: For finishing and protecting the shed’s exterior.

3. Tools Needed

Equipping yourself with the right tools makes the construction process smoother:

• Measuring Tape: For precise measurements.
• Level: To ensure structures are even.
• Circular Saw: For cutting lumber and plywood.
• Hammer and Nails: For framing and fastening.
• Drill and Screws: For assembling components.
• Ladder: For reaching high areas during roofing.
• Safety Gear: Gloves, goggles, and ear protection.

4. Foundation Preparation

A strong foundation is the backbone of your shed. Depending on your preference and shed size, choose between concrete blocks or a poured concrete slab.

• Concrete Blocks: Ideal for smaller sheds; ensure they are level and adequately spaced.
• Poured Concrete Slab: Provides a permanent, sturdy base, suitable for larger structures.

Pro Tip: Ensure the foundation is square by measuring diagonals; they should be equal.

5. Framing

With the foundation in place, it’s time to build the framework.

• Floor Frame: Construct the floor frame using treated lumber to resist moisture.
• Wall Frames: Build each wall on the ground, ensuring openings for doors and windows before raising them into place.
• Roof Trusses: Assemble trusses or rafters, spacing them appropriately to support the roofing material.

Visual Suggestion: Include step-by-step images or a video tutorial demonstrating the framing process.

6. Roofing

The roof protects your shed from rain, snow, and sun. Choose a roofing material that complements your shed’s design and your local climate.

• Asphalt Shingles: Affordable and easy to install.
• Metal Roofing: Durable and low-maintenance.
• Other Options: Cedar shakes or rubber roofing for specific aesthetic or functional needs.

Installation Tips:

• Start from the bottom edge, overlapping each row.
• Install underlayment for added protection against moisture.

7. Siding

Exterior siding adds both beauty and protection to your shed. Select a material that suits your style and maintenance preferences.

• Vinyl Siding: Low maintenance and resistant to dents.
• Wood Siding: Classic look, requires regular upkeep.
• Metal or Composite Siding: Durable and modern appearance.

Finish Note: Ensure all seams are properly sealed to prevent moisture infiltration.

8. Doors and Windows Installation

Functional and well-placed doors and windows enhance your shed’s usability and aesthetics.

• Doors: Install doors that are sturdy and provide secure access. Pre-hung doors simplify the installation process.
• Windows: Add windows for natural light and ventilation. Consider energy-efficient options to maintain interior climate.

Security Tip: Use high-quality locks to protect your shed’s contents.

9. Finishing Touches

The final steps bring your shed to life, adding both functionality and style.

• Painting or Staining: Protect the exterior with paint or stain, choosing colors that complement your home and landscape.
• Interior Organization: Install shelves, hooks, and storage systems to keep your items neatly arranged.
• Lighting and Electrical: If needed, add lighting fixtures and electrical outlets for added convenience.

Customization Idea: Personalize your shed with decorative trims, window shutters, or a unique door design.

Materials List

Having a detailed materials list ensures you have everything you need before starting construction. Here’s a comprehensive list to guide you:

Foundation

• Concrete blocks or poured concrete
• Gravel for base

Framing

• 2×4 treated lumber
• Plywood or OSB sheets

Roofing

• Roofing felt
• Asphalt shingles or metal roofing panels
• Roofing nails

Siding

• Vinyl, wood, or metal siding panels
• Exterior-grade screws or nails

Doors and Windows

• Pre-hung shed door
• Energy-efficient windows
• Hinges and locks

Fasteners and Hardware

• Nails and screws of various sizes
• Metal brackets for reinforcement
• Caulk and weatherstripping

Finishing

• Exterior paint or stain
• Primer
• Interior paint (if applicable)

Tips and Tricks

Building a shed can be a rewarding experience, and a few insider tips can make the process even smoother:

• Measure Twice, Cut Once: Precision in measuring and cutting prevents material waste and ensures a sturdy structure.
• Use Quality Materials: Investing in high-quality materials pays off in durability and appearance.
• Plan for Ventilation: Proper ventilation prevents mold and maintains a comfortable interior climate.
• Weather Protection: Use waterproofing techniques and materials to safeguard your shed against the elements.
• Safety First: Always wear appropriate safety gear and follow best practices to prevent accidents.

Common Mistakes to Avoid

Even with thorough planning, it’s easy to make mistakes during shed construction. Here are some common pitfalls and how to avoid them:

1. Neglecting the Foundation: A weak foundation can lead to structural issues. Ensure it’s level, sturdy, and suited to your shed’s size.
2. Poor Ventilation: Without adequate ventilation, moisture can build up, damaging the shed’s interior. Incorporate vents or windows to allow airflow.
3. Overlooking Local Building Codes: Always check local regulations and obtain necessary permits to avoid legal complications.
4. Skipping the Roof Overhang: Proper overhangs protect the walls from rain. Ensure your roof design accommodates adequate coverage.
5. Inadequate Insulation: If you plan to use the shed year-round, insulation helps maintain a comfortable temperature inside.

Enhancing Your Shed’s Functionality

Beyond the basic construction, there are numerous ways to enhance your shed’s functionality and aesthetics:

• Electricity and Lighting: Install outlets and lighting fixtures for added convenience, especially if the shed doubles as a workspace.
• Heating Solutions: In colder climates, consider adding a portable heater or insulating the shed to keep it warm.
• Security Features: Enhance security with sturdy locks, motion-sensor lights, and even a security camera system.
• Aesthetic Additions: Add shelving, benches, or decorative elements to make your shed both practical and visually appealing.

Inspiration Idea: Explore different shed designs and customization options through free online resources and plan adjustments to fit your specific needs.

Maintaining Your Shed

A well-maintained shed lasts longer and continues to serve its purpose effectively. Follow these maintenance tips to keep your shed in prime condition:

• Regular Cleaning: Sweep the interior and exterior to remove dirt, debris, and pests.
• Inspect for Damage: Periodically check for signs of wear, such as cracks in the siding or roof, and make necessary repairs promptly.
• Protect from Moisture: Ensure gutters are clear, and seal any gaps where water might enter.
• Reapply Finish: Refresh paint or stain every few years to maintain protection and appearance.

Maintenance Schedule:

• Monthly: Inspect for pests and moisture issues.
• Quarterly: Clean gutters and check for structural integrity.
• Annually: Perform a thorough inspection and repaint or restain as needed.

Conclusion

Building a shed from scratch is a fulfilling endeavor that offers immense benefits, from increased storage and workspace to enhanced property value. With the right free shed plans and a detailed materials list, you can embark on this project with confidence and creativity. Remember, meticulous planning, quality materials, and attention to detail are the keys to constructing a durable and stylish shed that meets your specific needs.

Ready to Get Started?

Don’t wait to transform your backyard with a custom-built shed. Download these free shed plans today and get access to a comprehensive materials list that will guide you every step of the way. Whether you’re a seasoned DIY enthusiast or a first-time builder, these resources are designed to help you build with ease and confidence.

In the end, it might be close to this other ChatGPT shed:

Before it died, you noticed it was starting to go out. But you didn’t want to cough up the money to replace your dead car battery.

So what do you do?

Risk it and see how long the dying battery will last?

Or…

Buy a new one?

I’m going to go with neither.

See, there’s actually a way to recondition batteries. Even a dead car battery.

There’s a resource that costs a tiny fraction of the price of a new battery. And it gives you knowledge that you’ll keep forever.

What is it?

This website contains endorsements for products and services which means when you click on a link that we recommend, we may receive a commission at no cost to you.

The EZ Battery Reconditioning system will give you step by step instructions for reconditioning batteries.

You’ll also learn how to properly maintain your batteries to get the most life possible out of them.

Once you sign up, you’ll get access to the member’s area where you will find reconditioning guides for several different types of batteries.

You will get lifetime access to the guides including any future updates.

You can also use this information to recondition and sell old batteries that you get for cheap or even free. So the program basically pays for itself.

But if you aren’t happy for some reason, there’s also a 60 day money back guarantee. So you have absolutely nothing to lose.

On top of that, there’s a bonus “Battery Business Guide” that will teach you how to get old batteries in bulk (often times for free) and recondition them to sell for large profits.

So what are you waiting for? Click below to find out how to bring your dead car battery back to life.

This website contains endorsements for products and services which means when you click on a link that we recommend, we may receive a commission at no cost to you.

Helpful Information

Here’s some links with some great information on car batteries. If any of these sound helpful to you, the EZ Battery Reconditioning system will be perfect for you:

• 8 Simple Tips & Tricks To Extend The Life Of Your Car Battery
  
• 7 Signs Your Car Battery Is About To Die And Needs To Be Replaced (or reconditioned)
  
• 7 Ways To Prolong The Life Of Deep Cycle Lead-Acid Batteries
  

But a monoblock amp only has one channel, right?

Isn’t’ that what mono means?

– Well – yes.

Then why does my mono amp have 4 speaker terminals? Is it a 2 channel amp or mono?!?

I get this question quite a bit. And for good reason…

It can be confusing when you go to hook up your subs to your mono amp and notice there are 4 speaker terminals. It looks something like this:

Don’t worry. It is in fact just one channel.

When you see an amp like this, both of the positive speaker terminals are wired together internally. And both of the negative speaker terminals are wired together internally (wired in parallel).

Amp manufacturers just do this to make it easier to connect multiple subs to one amp.

How do you connect subs to an amp like this?

Say you have two single voice coil 4 ohm subs and connect one to each pair of speaker terminals on the amp.

The final load the amp sees is 2 ohms because two 4 ohm SVC subs wired in parallel is 2 ohms.

What if you have just one sub?

Just use either of the two positive terminals for positive. And any of the negative terminals for negative. The remaining two will just have nothing hooked up.

This diagram does a great job showing a few different ways to wire subs to an amp like this:

But don’t take my word for it. MTX has a great description on their website:

” A monoblock amplifier is a 1 channel amp (mono literally means 1).

Since bass is omnidirectional, meaning you can tell where it’s coming from, it isn’t necessary to run subwoofers in stereo.

You may see 2 sets of speaker terminals on monoblock amps and they will be labeled as either speaker 1 and speaker 2 terminals, or simply + + and – -. That is because the two + terminals are connected to each other inside the amp, as are the two – terminals.

The second set is there simply to make it easier to connect multiple speakers to the amplifier.

Do not confuse the two sets of terminals as separate channels.

If you’re not sure whether an amp is a mono or two channel amp, you can look at the labels above the speaker terminals. A multichannel amplifier will have the separate channels labeled as Left and Right, or L and R.”

That should clear it up for everyone, but…

If you still have any questions on this (or anything else for that matter), just comment below or send an email to taylor@caraudioadvice.com.

I’ll do what I can to help.

And if you want great info like this sent directly to your inbox, sign up for the Car Audio Advice email list.

Here is another post that deviates a bit from car audio but may still be helpful to a lot of people. This will go over how to install a dual oil catch can setup for my 2007 STI that doesn’t break the bank as much as the higher quality custom kits from name brand manufacturers. This is not meant to take away from those companies’ sales. In fact I used to sell Mishimoto, Boomba Racing, Cusco, Beatrush, and ProSport catch cans. These kits are much higher quality, have the proper R&D behind them, and shouldn’t be completely overlooked when considering a catch can or air oil system. I am offering a cheaper alternative geared more towards DIYers that like to build things from scratch and source their own materials.

Why to use an oil catch can

First thing you should know is why a catch can is beneficial. The way the stock system is setup, air is pulled from the engine crankcase and valve covers using vacuum from the intake tract. The problem with this is that this air contains oil vapors which often condense somewhere in the intake. This is worse on turbo cars or cars that are more susceptible to blow-by which will pressurize the crankcase and push more oil out into your intake. This oil in your intake air will obviously mix with the combustion gasses and lower your effective octane rating which can lead to knock on certain engines. The oil can also pool up in the intake tract and cause air flow problems, especially on forced induction cars since pressurized air won’t hold liquid as well.

The catch can intercepts the path of this air back to the intake and condenses the oil in the can. The reason I chose the cans i did is because they have a baffle and a filter media in them to help with condensing the oil back to a liquid. Some people also put other filter media in the cans to help with this.

These pictures show what happens without catch cans.

One thing I realized while doing this was that figuring out a clean looking mounting solution was difficult. This part alone may make it worth a high quality custom fit kit. The catch cans come with a couple of self tapping screws which are probably fine for mounting, but I decided to go with a more robust solution.

Below is a diagram and parts list along with links to all of the parts I used for my kit. My total cost at the time of purchase was around $130. Price will fluctuate depending on when you’re reading this.

Click Image below for high resolution copy.

The guinea pig

How to install an oil catch can

For mounting location, I used the normal area on these cars which is the passenger side strut tower after removing the engine harness bracket. I found an old bracket from an Escort 9500ci install that worked pretty well and mounted it to the strut tower with these nutserts, these screws, and these washers (check out this awesome DIY nutsert tool. The one I put together is a variation of this. Works great). I also gave it a quick spray of undercoating to help prevent rust, but I was too lazy to jack the car up to spray the other side. Maybe next time I take that wheel off.

I used the install instructions from both Mishimoto and Radium to base my install on, but to make it easier, I just vacuum capped the little white plug that runs from the back of the PCV valve tee fitting to the turbo inlet and used the factory metal valve breather tubing that’s mounted to the intercooler.

To get the 1/2″ hose to fit on the turbo inlet, I used a heat gun and the end of a ratchet wrench to expand it. Didn’t use a hose clamp on this fitting since I put it on with the hose still warm, so it shrunk in place.

These cans come with fittings made for 1/2″ hose, so I needed two 3/8″ hose barb fittings. That’s where the brass ones came from. For my setup, I needed one 2 port and one 3 port catch can, but I liked the blue which was only available in 3 port. I used the plug that came on the bottom of one can to plug the extra inlet port for the PCV can since I put valves on the bottom of the cans to drain them. I used some thread sealant to seal the fittings on the cans.

Scroll through the pictures below to see what I’m talking about.

Oh and if you want a sweet LED hood light kit, let me know: CAAInstallations@gmail.com. It works great. I had to finish up after dark and could see most of what I needed with just that one light.

Update:

After I had this installed on the car for a bit, I would recommend upgrading to higher quality drain valves. One of mine had a very slow leak to it, but other than that, this kit worked out great. I’m not sure how it’s holding up now because I sold the car a few months after installing this.

This mini series shows how to upgrade speakers in a 2007 STi, or any 2002-2007 Subaru Impreza model. I will be showing how to remove door panels and speakers, make speaker adapters, seal doors and apply sound deadening, and how to install a set of 2 way component speakers with passive crossovers.

The second part of this video series goes over making custom speaker adapters:

Check out Part 1: How to Remove Door Panels and Speakers here

This mini series shows how to upgrade speakers in a 2007 STi, or any 2002-2007 Subaru Impreza model. I will be showing how to remove door panels and speakers, make speaker adapters, seal doors and apply sound deadening, and how to install a set of 2 way component speakers with passive crossovers.

Equipment used in this install is listed below. I am an authorized dealer for all these products. If you are interested, just contact me or order through the affiliate links below:

• Source unit: Sony RM-X7BT Bluetooth controller

• Amplifier: Zapco ST-4X SQ 4 channel amp

• Speakers: Sony XSGS1621C GS Series 6.5″ 2 way component speakers
• Sound deadening: SoundSkins Pro. Also check out Second Skin here.

The first part of this video series goes over door panel and speaker removal:

Check out Part 2: How To Make Speaker Adapters here 

If your car speakers are popping, it can be due to several different reasons. Below, I’ll break these down into speaker pop and amp pop. As well as turn on pop and turn off pop.

What is turn on / turn off pop?

You may have noticed that after installing a new piece of equipment, you will get a pop in your speakers or subwoofer when you first turn the key on, turn the key off, or sometimes both. There can be many causes of turn on/off pop including amp ground, bad amp, or the order the amp is being turned on or off.

Turn On Pop

Usually what is happening is the amp will turn on first, then your radio or whatever source you have feeding the amp is turning on which will cause an inrush current to the already turned on amp which causes the speakers to pop. The problem can also be with the amp itself. How to troubleshoot and fix both of these issues is described below.

Turn Off Pop

Turn off pop is the opposite; the radio is turning off before the amp which sends a signal to the amp that gets amplified as the amp is powering off. This can also be an issue with the amp itself and methods to troubleshoot and fix these problems are found below.

Jump to section:

• How to troubleshoot turn on/off pop
• PAC TR-4 vs TR-7 vs Stinger SGN21 vs Metra Axxess AX-MTR
• How to fix stereo turn on pop
• How to fix amplifier turn on pop
• How to fix stereo turn off pop
• How to fix amplifier turn off pop
• How to fix AudioControl pop

How to troubleshoot car speakers popping

First thing to do is unplug the RCAs from the amp and turn the vehicle on or off depending on when you hear the pop. If the pop is still there, check your grounds. If the pop is gone, go to the next step. If that doesn’t help, it’s likely there’s a problem with the amp or radio itself. One way to fix this is to wire relays  into the speaker wires themselves to disconnect the speakers from the amp at turn on/off in conjunction with a delay module like the PAC TR-4, TR-7, Stinger SGN21, or Metra Axxess AX-MTR. The amp will still be making the “pop” internally, but it wont send that possibly damaging signal to your speakers.

If the pop sound disappears once you disconnect the RCAs, then the problem is most likely from your amp being turned on first. Next, plug the RCAs back in and remove the remote wire from the amp. Now turn the key on and wait a couple of seconds then touch the remote wire back to the amp to turn it on. If the amp comes on with no pop, then a trigger delay device will fix your problems. If there is still a pop, it’s likely a problem with your amp, and you will have to isolate the speakers as well as use a delay module.

You can also use this same method in reverse to troubleshoot turn off pop. To determine if it’s the amplifier or the radio causing turn off pop, disconnect the remote wire from the amp while the vehicle is on with music playing. If it still pops, you have amplifier off pop. If it does not pop, it is likely the radio itself or whatever source you used for remote turn on signal. This can be fixed under the stereo off pop section below.

Most aftermarket radios have a built in delay on the remote turn on wire, so turn on pop is usually not as much of a concern. There are some cases where the delay isn’t long enough, though, and an external delay may need to be used.

Recommended Installation Tools and Accessories:

• Digital Multimeter
• Crimpers
• Butt Connectors
• Zip Ties
• Electrical Tape or Tesa Tape

TR-4 vs TR-7 vs SGN21 vs Metra Axxess AX-MTR

PAC TR-4    (click here for product page)

Buy the TR-4 on Amazon

This is the simplest and least expensive device. It has 2 main funcitons

• Eliminates turn on pop via a 1 second delay
• Add remote turn on from any voltage source over +0.8V. This means you can tap into a speaker wire to trigger your remote turn on. This especially comes in handy when adding an amp to a factory system

PAC TR-7    (click here for product page)

Buy the TR-7 on Amazon (May be discontinued)

This and the AX-MTR are the most complex devices out of the group and the most difficult to setup as they require programming depending on what you want to use it for. The TR-7’s default is Alpine video bypass, so no programming is needed for that feature. As far as this post is concerned, it can delay both amp turn on and turn off to fix either turn on or turn off pop. It has many different functions including

• Turn on pop delay
• Delayed amp turn off
• Low voltage trigger
• Alpine video bypass
• Any other radio video bypass
• Latching outputs
• Double pulse output
• Pulse extender
• Linear actuator controller
• Door lock pulse generator
• Channel splitter
• 3 in 1 timer outputs
• Pulses to timed output

Stinger SGN21 (discontinued)  

Looks like the SGN21 has been discontinued, but if you have one or are able to find one, I’ll include it in this post.

This device is between the TR-4 and TR-7 as far as features go. There is no programming like the TR-7, so this one will be a quicker install. The product page on their website mentions converting speaker wires to RCAs (an LOC pretty much). I don’t see any thing about that in the instruction manual or pictures, so it must be a typo. I have never used this product, so I’m not sure on this.

• Eliminates amplifier on pop
• Eliminates amplifier off pop
• Eliminates stereo off pop

Metra Axxess AX-MTR    (click here for product page)

This is Metra’s version of the PAC TR-7, so I won’t be going over this one in this post either since I don’t think it is worth the programming time just to delay the amp turn on/off. It basically has all the same features as the TR-7.

How to fix stereo turn on pop

This method is used if troubleshooting proved the pop problem is being caused due to the speaker(s) popping .If all you have is turn on pop, then the PAC TR-4 will be the easiest and least expensive module for you, although the TR-7, SGN21, or AX-MTR will still work as mentioned above. It still may be a better idea to go with one of the others just so you have something with more features in the future should you ever remove your system and don’t have turn on pop anymore.

How to wire up TR-4 for stereo turn on pop

The PAC TR-4 comes with very clear instructions, but here’s a quick overview. You can also download the instructions on the product page here.

• Yellow wire: constant +12V source
  • You can run this straight to the battery, to the radio constant wire if you will be taking the radio out, or if you don’t have to remove the radio, I like to tie this into the main power wire at the amp. It’s always best to add a fuse to this wire just to be safe
• Black wire: ground
  • Again, you can tie this in with the radio ground, amp ground, or put a ring terminal on the wire and screw it into bare metal
• Green wire: + trigger input
  • This can be any voltage source +0.8V or higher that comes on when you turn they key. Tap an accessory power fuse in the fuse box or even tie into a speaker wire (one that isn’t an output of the amp you’re connecting of course)
• Blue wire: +12V output (delayed accessory on)
  • This is the wire you will now run for the remote turn on to the amplifier. It takes whatever trigger you gave it and turns it into 12V that the amp needs to turn on with a one second delay to eliminate the pop

How to wire up SGN21 for stereo turn on pop

The SGN21 is almost identical as far as wiring goes but with different colors, and I don’t believe you can use speakers as a trigger source for it.

• Yellow wire: constant +12V source
  • You can run this straight to the battery, to the radio constant wire if you will be taking the radio out, or if you don’t have to remove the radio, I like to tie this into the main power wire at the amp. It’s always best to add a fuse to this wire just to be safe
• Black wire: ground
  • Again, you can tie this in with the radio ground, amp ground, or put a ring terminal on the wire and screw it into bare metal
• Blue wire: + trigger input
  • This can be any +12V voltage source that turns on when you turn the key. Tap an accessory power fuse in the fuse box or radio accessory wire if hooking up to a factory radio, or wire into remote turn on wire of aftermarket radio
• White/blue wire: +12V output (delayed accessory on)
  • This is the wire you will now run for the remote turn on to the amplifier. It takes whatever trigger you gave it and delays the amp turn on to eliminate pop

The TR-7 and AX-MTR can also use speaker wire as a trigger source like the TR-4, but I’m not sure if it can do a delay and this at the same time. I won’t be going over it as the instructions are confusing and it’s too much work in my opinion for something like this.

How to fix amplifier turn on pop

This method is used if troubleshooting proved the pop problem is being caused by the amp itself. Any of these modules can also be used if the amp itself is causing turn on pop. This method is the most difficult and is not listed in the instructions for the modules. It requires a relay for each speaker that is popping when the amp turns on as well as a delay module. Use both diagrams below as a guide but a few changes are necessary. The red and white/red wires in the second diagram will not be used.

What this does is disconnects the speakers from the amp when the vehicle is off, and when the key is turned on, it triggers the delay module which is used to trip the relay(s) to reconnect the speaker(s) after the amp has already been turned on.

• Yellow wire: constant +12V source
  • You can run this straight to the battery, to the radio constant wire if you will be taking the radio out, or if you don’t have to remove the radio, I like to tie this into the main power wire at the amp. It’s always best to add a fuse to this wire just to be safe
• Black wire: ground
  • Again, you can tie this in with the radio ground, amp ground, or put a ring terminal on the wire and screw it into bare metal
• Blue wire (SGN21) or green wire (TR-4): + trigger input
  • This can be any +12V voltage source that turns on when you turn the key. Tap an accessory power fuse in the fuse box or radio accessory wire if hooking up to a factory radio, or wire into remote turn on wire of aftermarket radio. In this method, you are also going to run another wire from this same source directly to the amp. This ensures the amp comes on with no delay so that you have time to delay the speakers
• White/blue wire (SGN21) or blue wire (TR-4): +12V output (delayed accessory on)
  • This wire will be run to pin 86 of the relay shown in the second diagram. This causes the relay to trip with a delay after the amp is turned on so the speakers will connect back after a short delay and the pop will not be heard
• Relay
  • You need to wire up a SPDT relay as shown above for each speaker except the accessory wire hooked to pin 86 in the diagram will be replaced with the white/blue wire of the SGN21 or the blue wire of the TR-4

How to fix stereo turn off pop

Either the SGN21, TR-7, or AX-MTR can be used for turn off pop. The TR-4 does not provide a turn off delay. I will not go over the TR-7 or AX-MTR here since the SGN21 is much easier to install.

How to wire up SGN21 for stereo turn off pop

This method is used if troubleshooting proved the pop problem is with the radio itself. Wiring the SGN21 for stereo turn off pop is similar to wiring for turn on pop, but you just use different wire colors and also wire into the radio accessory power wire.

Note: use caution when using this method on factory radios. It will also not work on all factory radios such as CAN bus turn on systems. I also would not recommend using this method to keep a fuse or other accessory wire that you may have tapped for remote turn on to stay on after the vehicle is shut off.

• Yellow wire: constant +12V source
  • You can run this straight to the battery, to the radio constant wire if you will be taking the radio out, or if you don’t have to remove the radio, I like to tie this into the main power wire at the amp. It’s always best to add a fuse to this wire just to be safe
• Black wire: ground
  • Again, you can tie this in with the radio ground, amp ground, or put a ring terminal on the wire and screw it into bare metal
• Red wire: + trigger input
  • This can be any +12V voltage source that turns on when you turn the key. Tap an accessory power fuse in the fuse box or radio accessory wire if hooking up to a factory radio, or wire into remote turn on wire of aftermarket radio. This wire will run from the ignition source to both the red wire on the SGN21 and the remote turn on input on the amp.
• White/red wire: +12V output (delayed accessory off)
  • This wire connects to the +12V accessory power wire on your radio. This is usually the red wire on aftermarket radio harnesses. This will keep the radio on after the amp shuts off to eliminate the pop from the radio

How to fix amplifier turn off pop

How to wire up SGN21 for amplifier turn off pop

Wiring the SGN21 for amplifier turn off pop is a bit more difficult than the other methods as you will need a relay for each speaker that is popping when the amp turns off. What this does is disconnects the speakers from the amp when the key is turned off, and the delay module keeps the amp on for a second so that the speakers are disconnected from the amp when the amp is shut down.

• Yellow wire: constant +12V source
  • You can run this straight to the battery, to the radio constant wire if you will be taking the radio out, or if you don’t have to remove the radio, I like to tie this into the main power wire at the amp. It’s always best to add a fuse to this wire just to be safe
• Black wire: ground
  • Again, you can tie this in with the radio ground, amp ground, or put a ring terminal on the wire and screw it into bare metal
• Red wire: + trigger input
  • This can be any +12V voltage source that turns on when you turn the key. Tap an accessory power fuse in the fuse box or radio accessory wire if hooking up to a factory radio, or wire into remote turn on wire of aftermarket radio.
• White/red wire: +12V output (delayed accessory off)
  • This wire connects to the remote turn on input on the amplifier. This will keep the amp on for a second once the key is turned off so that the relay can disconnect the speaker(s) before the amp turns off
• Relay
  • You will need to wire up a SPDT relay as shown in the diagram above for each speaker that pops

AudioControl Pop

If you have an AudioControl unit in your system and have determined this is what is causing your turn on/off pop, then AudioControl recommends moving the Ground Isolation Selector. This may also help with other noises such as alternator whine. Their units ship with this in the fully isolated position, “which we know is best” (black jumper in center position). They recommend playing with the different settings to see if it helps you. Move the black jumper to the top position for the 200Ω setting or to the bottom position for the ground setting.

If neither of these settings help, they also provide an Input Ground Isolation Selector on some units you can play with to try and fix your noise. Make sure you turn off the system before making any of these changes.

Check out AudioControl’s products on Amazon

Grounding kits have been proven to provide several benefits including:

• Freeing up horsepower and torque
• Increased gas mileage
• Improved throttle response
• Quicker starts
• Reduced audio noise
• Smoother idle
• Smoother power after shifts

This is a true 8 gauge OFC grounding kit with each wire cut to a custom length based off of a 2007 STi but should fit any EJ engine in a GD chassis or similar and most likely even more Subaru or other vehicles including Forester and Legacy. Please contact for fitment on vehicles not listed.

Features

• Wire: True 8 AWG OFC full copper marine grade wire for  maximum conductivity and corrosion resistance. Has similar conductivity to 4 gauge CCA wire with better corrosion resistance
• Ring terminals: Full copper ring terminals with better conductivity and corrosion resistance than gold plated terminals
• 3M heat shrink on each connection
• Includes everything needed for installation:
  • 5 custom cut lengths of wire for a chain connection that is proven to provide better performance than high cost “circle” grounding kits that connect major engine components all across the engine bay
  • Full color detailed installation instructions
  • Bolt for securing wire to passenger side intake manifold if your car does not have one
  • Nut for securing wire on back of alternator. Easiest alternator mounting of any kit
  • Zip ties to secure wires out of the way

Instructions

1. Start with wire 1 (long) that runs from the passenger side strut tower to the passenger side intake manifold.

Scrape off paint behind wiring harness bracket then secure ring terminal between the bracket and strut tower.

Run other end of wire 1 to passenger side intake manifold.

2. Secure the other end of wire 1 and one end of wire 2 (short) to the passenger side intake manifold. Use the supplied bolt if your car does not have one in this spot.

Run other end of wire 2 to the throttle body.

3. Remove upper throttle body bolt and connect other end of wire 2 and one end of wire 3 (short) to this bolt.

Run other end of wire 3 to driver’s side intake manifold.

4. Connect other end of wire 3, one end of wire 4 (short), and one end of wire 5 (long) to driver side intake manifold.

5.  Connect other end of wire 4 to the back of the alternator using the supplied nut if your alternator bolt is long enough. If not, loosen the easiest to get to alternator bolt, cut center part of ring terminal off, slide terminal in between bolt and alternator, and re-tighten bolt.

6. Connect other end of wire 5 to the negative battery terminal.

7.  Secure wires using the included zip ties and make sure all bolts are tightened up.

Finished Product

About us:

CAA Mobile Installations is a mobile car stereo business from Southeast Louisiana that knows all about 12 volt mobile electronics and how to improve on them. This exact kit was tested on the owner’s 2007 STi and immediate throttle response and improve idle was noticed. Only the highest quality materials were used in this kit.

Shipping cost included in price. Shipped in a USPS flat rate box to US only. Item will be shipped once payment is received via PayPal

I’ve done this on several cars successfully including a couple of Toyota Tundras and Chevy trucks. Here is how I did it on my wife’s Subaru Forester XT:

First thing you’ll need to do is cut off an end of an RCA cable with enough slack to run up to the camera connector. Strip back the insulation and separate the signal and shield wires. I forgot to take a picture of this, so I stole this one. I would recommend using a high quality RCA cable for this as cheap ones usually fall apart when you strip the insulation back.

On my 2015 XT, these are the wires you’ll need to tap into. The shield is the translucent blue wire, and the signal is the black wire. This is the 8 pin connector on the back of the multi function display.

Make secure connections then plug the RCA into the backup camera input on your new radio.

You’ll also need to run a separate wire to tell the radio when you’re in reverse. On my car, it’s on the driver kick panel. Brown/yellow wire. Just splice into that and run it up to the reverse wire on the radio harness.

There you have it. Backup camera image mirrored onto the radio screen.

Also, the iDatalink Maestro is awesome and gives you gauges and steering wheel controls in one on select cars and radios.

Finished product

If you just want to get to wiring and don’t care about the technical stuff, click here to be brought to the subwoofer wiring diagrams page.

How to Wire Subs: Series and Parallel Wiring

Series

Series wiring for speakers means you are connecting the speakers like a chain. The positive terminal from one speaker connects to the negative terminal of the next speaker, then the positive of that speaker connects to the negative of the next speaker. You can do this with an infinite number of speakers. In this arrangement, if one part of the circuit is removed, nothing will work.

Series wiring will add the impedance of each speaker together, so for example: if you had three 2 Ohm speakers wired in series, the total impedance would be 6 Ohms. This will be explained in greater detail when I get to Ohm’s law.

For series wiring: Total Impedance = Sub Impedance x Total # of Subs

Parallel

Parallel wiring connects all of the positive terminals together and all of the negative terminals together. This means if part of the circuit goes out, all of the rest will still be connected, but the impedance will be affected.

Parallel wiring of speakers reduces the resistance seen by the amp, therefore making the amp work harder by pulling more current. Instead of adding all of the impedances together, the total impedance will be reduced further and further with each speaker added to the circuit. For example: if you wire (2) 4 Ohm subs together in parallel, you will get a total load of 2 Ohms.

For parallel wiring: Total Impedance = Sub Impedance / Total # of Subs, so if you have (4) 2 Ω SVC subs all wired in parallel, the total impedance will be 2 Ω / 4 subs = 0.5 Ω

Ohm’s Law 

Ohm’s law is the governing equation for all electrical circuits, and the equation is V = I x R where V=voltage, I=current, and R=resistance.

Voltage is constant for car audio (12V nominal, 14.4V with a running vehicle).

Resistance is constant (the total impedance your speakers are wired to).

Current will change depending on your impedance and the power your amp is capable of.

Rearrange the equation to read I = V / R.

This shows that if resistance is decreased, then the current the amp is pulling will increase. Therefore, the power output of the amplifier will increase because of the power equation P = V x I. Now you see why wiring subs to lower impedances will get more power out of your amp, and as a result and is why a lot of amps don’t like seeing too low of an Ohm load. A low ohm load will try to overpower the amp by pulling too much current.

This is a great Ohm’s Law chart to quickly see all the equations for power, current, voltage, and resistance:

Single vs. Dual Voice Coil 

The number of voice coils a subwoofer has determines your wiring options. Many people think DVC subs are more powerful than SVC or vice versa, but this is not the case. They make so many different versions of the same subs so you can get the total Ohm load you need no matter how many subs you plan on connecting together. A single DVC sub has two different wiring options right out of the box, whereas a SVC sub only has one.

Single Voice Coil (SVC)

Single voice coil subs are subwoofers that only have one voice coil. The impedance of a SVC sub will only be what that sub is rated at. For example, a single SVC 2 Ohm sub can only be wired to  2 Ohms.

Dual Voice Coil (DVC)

Dual voice coil subs have two voice coils. A single DVC sub can be wired to two different Ohm loads right out of the box by wiring it in either series or parallel. For example: a single 4 Ohm DVC sub can be wired to either 2 Ohms (parallel) or 8 Ohms (series). The Ohm rating on DVC subs is actually the rating per voice coil, so you cannot wire a 4 Ohm DVC sub to 4 Ohms.

How to Wire Subs to Desired Impedance

Now that you know what series wiring will raise total impedance and parallel will drop total impedance, I will show you how this is used in subwoofer wiring. Whenever you have (2) SVC subs of the same impedance, series wiring will always double that number, and parallel wiring will always half that number. Some math is needed for all other cases, especially when wiring multiple DVC subs together since you can have a mixture of series and parallel wiring in the same circuit.

For example: this circuit of two DVC 2 Ohm subs wired to a total load of 2 Ohms at the amp has the voice coils of each sub wired in series, but the two subs are then wired to each other in parallel. Wiring a DVC 2 Ohm sub in series gives you 4 Ohms. Then wiring two 4 Ohm subs in parallel will give you 2 Ohms. Hopefully that makes since.

Double check your final impedance with a multimeter after wiring before connecting your subs to the amp. I personally use this one from Amazon and it has worked great for me.

Below are some more diagrams for the most common wiring configurations. Post a comment or send an email if you don’t see the configuration you plan on wiring, and I can help you out. Here is a link to just the wiring diagrams for easier access: http://caraudioadvice.com/subwoofer-wiring-diagrams/

Subwoofer Wiring Diagrams – How to Wire Subs:

Single Voice Coil

[one_half]

Two 2 Ω subs wired in series to 4 Ω

[/one_half]

[one_half_last]

Two 2 Ω subs wired in parallel to 1 Ω

Two 4 Ω subs wired in parallel to 2 Ω

[/one_half_last]

Dual Voice Coil

[one_half]

One DVC 2 Ω sub wired in series to 4 Ω

Two DVC 2 Ω subs wired to 0.5 Ω

Two DVC 4 Ω subs wired to 1 Ω

[/one_half]

[one_half_last]

One DVC 2 Ω sub wired in parallel to 1 Ω

One DVC 4 Ω sub wired in parallel to 2 Ω

Two DVC 2 Ω subs wired to 2 Ω

Two DVC 4 Ω subs wired to 4 Ω

[/one_half_last]